Categories
The British Diaries

The Reality of Living on and Renovating a Boat.

Luxurious. The word echoed in my head as I fumbled through my scattered belongings to search for a bin bag.

I’m going to make this boat as luxurious as possible.

My words were definitely coming back to haunt me.

“Ah-ha! Gotcha!” I pulled out the forlorn crumpled bin bag from behind a bag of clothes and scrambled to hook it over my bathroom window. The towpath was busy today, and after three days of not showering, the scent of my own armpits offended me.

I knew people couldn’t help but look in through the windows. But I still glowered as I pulled shut two makeshift curtains I had created from old sarongs for my bathroom doors. I was guilty of that myself. I tried not to. But I find it too irresistible to get a flash of someone’s life. See what they’re watching on tv. What book they’re reading. If they’re sitting with an arm around a partner. Or alone in a chair with a dog asleep in their lap.

But I’m sure when people looked through my windows, they didn’t expect to see a 30-something naked woman sitting in a dog’s paddling pool with a camping shower.

“Why don’t you use a shower curtain?” someone had asked me on Instagram.

“If I had a shower curtain, do you really think I wouldn’t use it?” I thought with gritted teeth. Sometimes it can be annoying when people point out the obvious.

What you need is a shower curtain.

What you need are solar panels.

What you need is a fridge.

I know.

I know.

I know.

“When I move onto the boat, my costs will be mega low,” I had assured my parents. “I’ll be able to bank a hulk of cash. Don’t worry!”

Those words were haunting me now as I moved to the kitchen, two steps away from my wet room. Having my gas connected was going to cost on average £750- or so I had heard. £750. Just to have hot water.

I placed the kettle onto my small camping stove, which stood just over my new Thetford three burner- the burner that I couldn’t afford to connect.

Renovating a boat was not cheap. And although I had moved onto Leviathan, I still had previous bills to pay. My old boatyard for rent. My boat builder. I needed to save for solar. For an inverter. For a gas fit out. For a wet room to be built. For a custom mattress to be made.

Mild panic rolled in my head before I squashed it down.

“You’re fine for now,” I told myself. “Stay in the present.”

I turned briefly and stared at what was supposed to be my “luxurious” lounge. A space with a bookshelf stacked with history books, encyclopaedias, poetry and fantasy. Opposite sat two airbeds perched on top of each other, covered with a green throw. That was my makeshift settee for now. Before it lay a purple, gold and green rug my sister had gifted me and the fireplace. The fireplace was probably the most successful and openly beautiful thing about this boat. A black multi-fuel burner set upon Victorian-style pale green tiles. Gloss teal tiles surrounded the burner and set within were antique metal plaques. Moulded into the metal was a scene of men and women at work in the fields.

I swallowed at the sight. They had belonged to my late Granddad, hidden away in a shed, of which he had intended to use for a later project he just never got round to.

“He would love all of this,” my Nan had told me. “He would have loved to help you with everything.”

And it was true. If there had been a man designed to help with this boat project who could do everything it would have been him.

My dad had crafted the fireplace setting together, and it made it mean even more to me. The only source of warmth in my home had been crafted by my family.

The whistling of the kettle jerked my thoughts back to the present. Turning off my small camping stove, I set to pouring it into a bucket and found my desired temperature with cold water.

My washing method was a £30 electronic camping shower. I’d sit in the paddling pool to shampoo, condition, wash my face, body and then- if I was feeling particularly luxurious- shave my legs.

What a treat for the world.

I padded into the tiny paddling pool and set about washing the week from my body, hair and face. That was the biggest change from land to water life. The lack of frequent hot showers. The difference of water pressure. The ability to step out and actually have room to move.

I had started sadistically making everything into a game. How quickly I could do it all. How tidily. How much water I could save in the bucket for the end where I could simply sit, relax and be.

With tasks like these, I made sure to make myself associate them with something positive happening. Sometimes it was a glass of wine in front of the fire and music whilst I bathed. Today it was listening to an audiobook and Maltesers.

Sometimes it was hard to keep that mentality. Sometimes it was hard to not feel exhausted before the day had even started and go to work with full energy.

Wake up, boil water, start the generator to charge my phone and other electronics, run the engine to charge the batteries, make breakfast after boiling water for tea and shower, pack away padding pool, and then get dressed and ready for the day on a swaying boat as hire boats whizz past.

I had always thought other narrowboaters were over-exaggerating when they complained at the speed when other boats went past. In the past, living on a sailboat prepared you for the entire boat to ricochet back and forth, dishes smashing and possessions falling from shelves as the crew were shoved from one side to the other. And if it wasn’t other boats, it was from the swell of the sea.

And although it was nowhere near as bad, an inconvenience is still an inconvenience.

I finally stumbled out into the cockpit, fresh and dressed, to head to my art studio, which was now an hour’s drive away. I had been cruising and commuting to work as best as possible to ensure I still had funds to come in for renovations, fuel and provisions. But the commute was getting further and further away as I progressed, petrol costs were spiralling and constantly moving my car was getting to me.

The sunlight hit me in one shard of dazzlement. I blinked, trying to adapt my sight from the shadows from inside the boat.

“Good morning, darling!” came a cheery wave and greeting from my boat neighbour. I released a bundled breath and my shoulders relaxed.

And as I dragged in the scent of grass, fields, blossom and damp earth into my lungs, tinged with the familiar smell of coal, oil and the scent coffee being made somewhere, it all felt worthwhile.

You can’t rush on a canalboat. It’s impossible. So I’d sit on my roof and stare out. Recalibrate. Remind myself that this was why I was doing all of this. To have this to soothe my brain when times got hard.

Despite all of the long routes I had to do inside my boat to achieve minuscule tasks, I didn’t hate any of it. I enjoyed it. Yes, I could complain and whinge. But… I liked it. I liked knowing that I was capable. That I could survive. Make do. Persevere.

And that gave me a sense of pride in my ability.

It was making me build a better relationship with myself. Made me feel proud.

See? You can do it! Look at you go!

“I’m making coffee, would you like one?”

I scanned the blue skies, the rolling green fields, watched as the other boaters prepared for their day. Someone had come back from provision shopping and another was painting the exterior of his boat. An older boater was laughing at his dog, attempting to pick up an overly large stick, his gravelly laugh travelling along the water.

This. I could get used to this.

I didn’t bother checking my watch. I thought of the traffic. Of the buildings. Of needing to get more petrol. Of reality caving in around me in a case of concrete and pylons. Deadlines. Emails. The internet.

A part of me recoiled at the idea of going back to it.

I grinned. “I’d love one.”


You can find Lizbef’s published books here.

Categories
The British Diaries

Ep 47: Boat Plans, MONEY and MAN DOWN!

We’re nearing the finishing line and this means a plan of action, money predictions and Lizbef wonders who she can trust whilst Wayne recovers!

Categories
The British Diaries

Ep 38: Full time job and boat renovation during a pandemic explanation.

We crack on with more work in this episode, discuss expansion and news on Leviathan!

Categories
The British Diaries

Ep 27: Removing and blocking up windows on a canal boat!

This episode is all about the process of removing the windows from Leviathan and having them laminated in preparation for her new portholes! Liz is joined by the amazing Wayne from Manchester to help her with the boat’s restoration!

Find Wayne at https://www.facebook.com/waynesboatworkservices/

Tip for a Cuppa Tea!

This video was powered by the glory of tea! If you would like to slide one my way, please do! Much love, Lizbef and Leela x

$3.00

Categories
The British Diaries

Back to the Canal Boat!

We return to the newly named Leviathan! New name, new start. Follow Liz as she lays out her plans for the future and starts prepping the boat for a huge transformation! Want to see episodes before anyone else? Head to https://www.patreon.com/earlewrites

Tip for a Cuppa Tea!

This video was powered by the glory of tea! If you would like to slide one my way, please do! Much love to you! Lizbef and Leela x

$3.00

Categories
The Papageno Diaries!

Doors and Floors! Work Continues!

We get stuck in! We scrape the ceiling free of glue, fit the doors and prepare to insert the foundations for the flooring! So exciting!

Tip for a Cuppa Tea!

This video was fueled by the power of tea! If you've enjoyed this video and would like to slide a brew my way- please feel free! Thank you so much 🙂 x

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The Papageno Diaries! Videos

The Papageno Diaries: S2 Episode 4 “WE’RE SAILING!”

Papageno FINALLY leaves the Marina and sets out of her first EVER voyage with her restored masts!
We do what we do because of YOU! Join us as a Patron at https://www.patreon.com/svpapageno
Find us at https://www.earlewrites.com
Music:
http://www.EpidemicSound.com
http://www.Freesound.org

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The Papageno Diaries! Videos

The Papageno Diaries: Episode 9 “Sick as a dog and our engine NIGHTMARE!”

What a palarva! Our engine fails mid journey towards St Kitts amidst billowing smoke! Laura holds in her breakfast during the high waves but Leela didn’t quite make it being sick as- well… sick as a dog! We were forced to take a detour to St Barts so we could get repairs! During this, we try and enjoy the silver lining, swimming, exploring and trying to find the bright side of the dark clouds! We WILL prevail, Papageno Clan! Find us at https://www.earlewrites.com Become a Patron: https://www.patreon.com/earlewrites Signing up for just a $1 means you see everything a week early! Donate: https://www.paypal.me/svpapageno Music: The Sea: Maddy Copacabana: Onda Norte LBL: Cospe Before the Dawn: Wild Beaches I don’t like Fish: Maddy (https://www.bearbone.com)

Papageno Tee!

Join the clan with our unisex Papageno tee! We hope you feel ship shape in our own designed shirt and hope it brings you much luck and perhaps a rum or two! Just specify in the notes what size you would like! Don’t worry if you forget- we’ll contact you straight away!

$29.00

 

Surprise Papageno Pendant!

Can't decide which one? No worries! We'll decide for you! Lovingly hand crafted by Edouard and I, each piece goes towards the repairs of our Amel!

$25.00

 

Papageno Bracelet!

Join the Papageno Clan with one of our handmade bracelets! Inspired Papageno’s story in Mozart’s famous Opera, as well as the wanderlust spirit it is to fly away and be free, we wanted to create something simple, bright and connected to our story. Each bracelet sold goes towards fixing our wounded Papageno ready to be out on the water! Free shipping with all orders!

$18.00

Categories
The Papageno Diaries! Videos

Papageno’s Captain Log: Part 1 “Keep it together!”

It’s been a long time. Far too long in fact. I can feel my bones shift into position as I take a heavier weight each day. But I knew this would happen. I knew that it would have to be like this.

Keep it together, Liz, keep it together.

I feel a calm resignation every day. I don’t even panic anymore. There have been so many set backs, cancellations and delays with Papageno that I’ve learned to take it all in my stride. Or maybe it’s not even taking it in my stride. Maybe I’ve just accepted it is the way it is, or maybe Papageno has just beaten me.

I don’t know. And I suppose it doesn’t matter as long as I carry on.

There’s a strange responsibility being a captain who shouldn’t be captain. I see the surprise on people’s faces when they ask who’s in charge of Papageno and they see my hand raised.

“Haha, yeah, but really?”

“No, I really am the Captain.”

“Oh… that’s nice!”

So nice. So nice in fact that I feel like my spine is turning to chalk each day as I get up and face another day of heat, another day of organisation, another day of trying to keep it all up and rolling for my crew who I desperately love.

I have dreams, I have aspirations, and one of them is to get Papageno out there and doing what she wants to do.

My day so far:

7am: I wake up alone in the cabin because of the mosquitos. They eat Edouard alive, forcing him to sleep in the cockpit. There weren’t too many the previous night, but we were all hot. We were excited the previous night because we had just had all of our dirty laundry washed. We went to bed after a cold shower at the marina and collapsed into our freshly washed sheets. I’ve never been so thankful to find my clothes smelling clean and have them beautifully folded.

I stayed up to put the usual things away in the saloon. I’m always worried that Leela will jump on the table and devour everything in sight- I still haven’t gotten over how she ate our entire packet of bacon that we were so excited to have for breakfast the next morning. Because we have our washing, I don’t want Edouard to wake up to a mess. He’s already collapsed in the cockpit and is fast asleep, so I put everything away and make our bed, shutting the cupboard doors quickly in case the hiding mosquitos get out.

7:30am Laura makes us porridge with proper oats. We had some awful Quaker stuff the other week with mushed up oats- it doesn’t feel very English. Edouard isn’t sure how he feels about the entire “eating oats” thing, claiming it’s for horses, not people. But Laura and I are incredibly enthusiastic about it this morning so he goes for it anyway, whacking a load of jam into his bowl. Laura chooses peanut butter (bleugh) and I choose chia seeds and brown sugar.

It’s delicious.

11am Edouard goes off in the dingy with Leela to go swimming. It’s far too hot for her and she’s usually panting under the table. She’s in the playful biting stage at the moment and loves to jump at our toes when we’re least expecting it. She’s not pooping on the boat anywhere- which is a small kindness, but enjoys pooping on the dock in front of other people’s boats. Edouard has been asked to clear up after her, and after throwing a bucket of water to clean up, the poop washes inside a man’s fishing boat. After being forced to jump in and throw it out by hand, we’re all keeping a watchful eye on where she chooses to go to the toilet.

12:30am

Edouard and I go to get some supplies for lunch. The most important thing about keeping a crew together I’ve learned is keeping up morale- and that’s usually through our bellies. We’re incredibly happy if we’ve made a bowl of popcorn or have biscuits to dunk in our tea.

1:30pm Edouard makes us a salad with tomatoes, caramelised onions with a French mustard and balsamic dressing and cheese. I can barely eat all of mine because we ate a huge bag of crisps before as we were too hungry to wait. I think he doesn’t mind because he usually gets to eat my scraps.

4pm We all take a moment to relax. I go to my room for a lie down with my book whilst Edouard teaches Laura about map reading. I’ve been reading about The Great War recently and just finished The Forgotten Voices of the Somme. I devoured it and I’m now reading The Forgotten Voices of the Great War. It’s an account from soldiers from both sides, German, French and English and what they witnessed and felt. It’s been hugely humbling, and I tell myself everyday when I find it hard that I have nothing to complain about. I’m not a seventeen year old boy standing in a trench waiting to be told to go over and get shot down. I have all of my limbs, my health, I have water, food and I’m safe. I’m not at war. I should be grateful. And so, when I lie back and have their accounts echoing in my head, I feel relief coursing through me.

5pm I’m here in the office at the marina, trying to charge up our equipment. We’ve been forced to stop our usual pace of speed recently as we wait for a new head gasket for Papageno. I’m not sure how much it’s going to be or how much the mechanic is going to be, so I’m making sure to raise funds by doing something that gives me peace- painting.

And that is my day so far. I’m looking forward to going back to the boat and getting out my watercolours and I know Edouard is keen for me to do that as well. It’s been hard over the past few months and I barely recognise myself. But I’ve reached the big 30 now and I’m determined to carry on with renewed enthusiasm and vigour. My crew relies on me. I didn’t realise how heavy that would feel. To always be able to keep it together to not affect anyone. I want a happy and safe crew. I want everyone to have a positive experience out of this.

But at the moment I know it’s been difficult. It’s been hard, but we’re all trying. We’ll be leaving St Kitts soon and will be heading to Monserrat and then Guadeloupe for a week. After that? Martinique for the serious repairs. Not to mention my parents are coming over to see me in September in St Lucia.

So, there’s a lot of good things happening and a lot to be thankful for.

And I’m actually proud of myself. I’m doing this. We’re doing this.

We’re not going to stop. Papageno will prevail.

“Stiff upper lip, ol’ chap!”

That’s the British way.

You can support us by signing up as a patron at https://www.patreon.com/earlewrites

Donate at https://www.paypal.me/svpapageno Or just find us and say hi at https://www.earlewrites.com

WE LOVE YOU GUYS!

Lizbef, Edouard, Laura and Leela! x

 

Papageno Tee!

Join the clan with our unisex Papageno tee! We hope you feel ship shape in our own designed shirt and hope it brings you much luck and perhaps a rum or two! Just specify in the notes what size you would like! Don’t worry if you forget- we’ll contact you straight away!

$29.00

 

Surprise Papageno Pendant!

Can't decide which one? No worries! We'll decide for you! Lovingly hand crafted by Edouard and I, each piece goes towards the repairs of our Amel!

$25.00

 

Papageno Bracelet!

Join the Papageno Clan with one of our handmade bracelets! Inspired Papageno’s story in Mozart’s famous Opera, as well as the wanderlust spirit it is to fly away and be free, we wanted to create something simple, bright and connected to our story. Each bracelet sold goes towards fixing our wounded Papageno ready to be out on the water! Free shipping with all orders!

$18.00

Categories
The Papageno Diaries! Videos

The Papageno Diaries: Episode 8 “New Intro! New Crew! NEW ADVENTURE!”

As we prepare to leave St Martin to start our journey down south, we work our ASSES off! On top of this, we have the arrival of our newest crew member Laura from NUNEATON! Leela discovers that the dingy is not a toilet, and Lizbef realises that having a puppy does involve getting up at 6am to rescue Leela from her new favourite toilet. Edouard meanwhile keeps his cool and saves the day- as ALWAYS! DIFFICULT DOES NOT MEAN IMPOSSIBLE! You can support us by signing up as a patron at https://www.patreon.com/earlewrites

Donate at https://www.paypal.me/svpapageno Or just find us and say hi at https://www.earlewrites.com

WE LOVE YOU GUYS!

Lizbef, Edouard, Laura and Leela! x

Music:

The Sea: Maddy https://www.bearbone.com

Day Dreaming of the Bow; Kira Lynn Sands (https://kiralynnsands.bandcamp.com/)

Wind in the Sails and Booze in the Belly: Kira Lynn Sands

Jahzaar: Vanlig (https://www.jamendo.com/track/760907/…)

Olde English: Maddy Summer: Bensound.com

Papageno Tee!

Join the clan with our unisex Papageno tee! We hope you feel ship shape in our own designed shirt and hope it brings you much luck and perhaps a rum or two! Just specify in the notes what size you would like! Don’t worry if you forget- we’ll contact you straight away!

$29.00

 

Surprise Papageno Pendant!

Can't decide which one? No worries! We'll decide for you! Lovingly hand crafted by Edouard and I, each piece goes towards the repairs of our Amel!

$25.00

 

Papageno Bracelet!

Join the Papageno Clan with one of our handmade bracelets! Inspired Papageno’s story in Mozart’s famous Opera, as well as the wanderlust spirit it is to fly away and be free, we wanted to create something simple, bright and connected to our story. Each bracelet sold goes towards fixing our wounded Papageno ready to be out on the water! Free shipping with all orders!

$18.00